Nineteen moose. I saw nineteen moose today, browsing along the Gros Ventre River, some napping and others chewing peacefully in this gorgeous landscape of snow, rock, and forest.

Jackson Lake is almost completely frozen over, a vast stretch of ice leading to the edge of the steep rise of the Teton Range. A cold wind picks up speed out here, and though the cold is biting, I see many tracks meandering across the snow on the lake's surface. Coyotes, weasels, elk and deer -- they've all been traveling across the lake recently.